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Saludos compadres,
Jacinto distributing organic radishes to be used later in delicious tacos. Photo by Counter Culture Coffee.
Today is a holiday across Mexico in observance of the Day of the Revolution, which commemorates the beginning of the Mexican Revolution in 1910. The revolution is not to be confused with independence, which occurred in 1810. (See the pattern? Mexicans joke that the government will hold its breath for an entire year in 2010.) The Mexican Revolution led to widespread agrarian reform, gave birth to the Mexican constitution and laid the foundation for Mexican politics as we know them now: think populism, Zapatistas and the PRI that ran the country for 80 consecutive years after the revolution ended in 1920. ¡Viva la revolución!
But let's move from Mexico's fascinating history to the 21st of September's fascinating coffee: I am writing from the town of Putla de Guerrero in western Oaxaca, Mexico, where the 21st of September co-op has its offices, warehouse, and soon-to-be cupping lab (more on that in a later dispatch). For the past few days, I have enjoyed the company of Clemente Santiago and Laura Tilghman of Sustainable Harvest, our importer partner, as well as Chris Thorns and Jorge Quintanilla of Allegro Coffee, which is one of the 21st's buyers, along with Counter Culture Coffee and Taylor Maid Farms. We're all here to work together with the leadership of the co-op to set a course for the harvest that's just now beginning. My goal is to share Counter Culture's experiences with last year's coffee – from taste profile to contract discussion to lot separation – and get perspective from the 21st on the same subjects so that we agree on how to make progress in coffee quality and our relationship.
Alvertano on his coffee farm in Zimatlán. Photo by Counter Culture Coffee.
We had the unusual opportunity today to participate, along with representatives from all 23 of the 21st's member communities, in a visit to a small coffee farm in the town of Zimatlán that recently completed a biogas-and-sustainable-miscellany project. The project began with the collaboration of the farm's owner, Jacinto, and the 21st's agronomist-in-charge, Gerardo, to use hog waste from the farm's seven pigs to create and capture methane gas for cooking and became, over six months, a system that integrates tilapia raised on animal and food waste, vegetables irrigated with the waste water from the tilapia pond, and specific ornamental plants that provide food for the hogs. Jacinto wants the farm to be a demonstration farm for other growers interested in incorporating these sustainable and efficient farm processes, and I believe that he is the perfect person to present these ideas because he represents the average member of the 21st in income, age, indigenous background, education, and experience. I loved listening to him talk about his journey toward greater self-sufficiency on his farm and observing the visiting growers of the 21st discuss which technologies they could incorporate and how to continue improving upon the model. It's also a good reminder to me, and all of us, that these opportunities are everywhere and for everyone – this system arose out of a few good ideas and the willingness to question the traditional way of doing things.
Tomorrow I will disappear up into the mountains for four days of farm visits, meetings with growers, and, I can only hope, more spicy and delicious tacos. Even if I didn't love the coffee and admire the co-op, I would visit the communities 21st for their food alone. I look forward to good conversations and to further strengthening Counter Culture's connection to this marvelous co-op, and please know that I am thinking of you guys and doing my best to represent Counter Culture Coffee, our customers and all of the coffee-loving consumers of the 21st's coffee while I'm here!
Kim Elena
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