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As we all know from our Valle del Santuario bio, Peru is a large, rugged country, and the Northern region where the famed Valle is located is distant and remote. While I won't focus too much time extolling this fact, it is entirely true, and is an important factor to keep in mind while discussing this coffee. Peru is larger than all of Central America combined (stop and think about all of the coffee we receive from Central America), and estimates of potential coffee production in Peru have been made at as much as four times more than all of Central America combined. Peru is a rising factor in the world of coffee.
Days 1 and 2
After arriving in Lima at 11 p.m. on Sunday night, the folks in our group woke up early Monday and gathered at Café Verde, for coffee and introductions. Café Verde is a beautiful café owned by KC O'Keefe, our trip leader and relationship liaison with our Valle del Santuario group. KC is well known in the industry as the originator of the term "direct trade", and as the creator of The Transparency Contract, which he trademarked with the express goal of giving it away for free use.
The members of our group included Tim Chapdelaine of Café Imports, the company who imports Valle del Santuario for us, and seven other people from companies as large as Portland's Coffee Beans International (10,000,000 pounds per year) and as small as Arcata, California's Sacred Grounds (less than 100,000 pounds per year). We were a diverse group and we all really enjoyed getting to know one another.
The Cenfrocafe office in San Ignacio, Peru. Photo by Rich Futrell.
After breakfast, we all marched past KC's vintage 10 Kilo roaster up to his third floor cupping lab. We spent a couple of hours cupping coffees and discussing our scores using the Cup of Excellence cupping forms. This was to be the first of several sessions where we all explored the concept of cupping calibration, a very important key for delivering quality in the cup, year after year. Training cuppers and calibrating scoring was to play a very important part in our in-depth discussions and debates during this trip.
After lunch we took a two hour flight north to Chiclayo, where we met up with Elmer, the Sales Manager for Cenfrocafe, and piled into two trucks for a drive to Jaen. When we arrived at 11 p.m. the hotel had dinner waiting for us. Unfortunately, several members of our group had suffered from motion sickness during the dark 5 hour drive over twisting mountain roads, and we had a 7 a.m. wakeup call in the morning, so dinner was quiet, quick, and light.
Day 3
Up and out early, we all made the hour and a half journey by truck further north to San Ignacio, where we met at the Cenfrocafe Beneficio—the regional cooperative headquarters and receiving station for coffee. We met for an hour with the cooperative management, and were joined by a representative from a Belgian NGO who managed an office in San Ignacio and was working with Cenfrocafe on a development plan to build a centralized washing station in the very region where our Valle del Santuario coffee is grown.
This project came as a complete surprise to KC and we had a very spirited conversation about the potential merits and liabilities of such a project as he and I climbed back into a truck with Anne Costello of Café Imports for a very rough, and rainy, two hour ride to our ultimate destination of Alto Ihuamaca, one of the five communities involved in the production of our Valle del Santuario coffee.
A cinderblock meeting hall in Alta Ihuamaca where farmers and buyers discussed mutual industry concerns.  Photo by Rich Futrell.
Upon arrival at Alto Ihuamaca, we were greeted by the president of the association and led into the cinderblock building that was used for association meetings. I was very excited to meet these producers and had an opportunity to make a short speech to the 40 or so producers who made the trek in the rain to meet with us. I expressed gratitude on behalf of all of us at Counter Culture Coffee for the hard work and attention to detail that they have all put into producing this excellent coffee. I made sure to ask our two microlot producers—Yefri Pintado Huaman and Isidro Neira Garcia—to stand up and we all applauded them for such a fantastic job with their coffee. We also acknowledged Zacharias Neira Melendres, who produced last year's microlot. I presented the association president with several bags of roasted Valle del Santuario, T-shirts, and laminated copies of our coffee bio.
Along with KC, Anne, and I, our friend from the Belgian NGO made the trip to Alto Ihuamaca and gave a presentation to the farmers about his plans to build a washing station with the goal of producing "homogenously good" coffee. Unfortunately, he informed the producers, they would need to take out a loan to pay for the $300,000 project.
Lunch break in the mountains of northern Peru. Photo by Rich Futrell.
As you can imagine, a spirited debate ensued between KC, who is in favor of processing at the farm level, and the good doctor from Belgium. The farmers listened intensely. Ultimately, we opened up the meeting to questions and comments from the producers, and it was at this point that I realized that, while we love the warm fuzzies and good vibes of Transparency Contracts and fair and sustainable relationships, this is business, after all. The farmers were full of very organized statements, questions, and, indeed, challenges for us and—to my initial surprise—for me, in particular. As the purchaser of their coffee, they were very intent to let me know how hard they worked, and how they had no idea how their coffee would score, which made them anxious since the amount of money they made was directly tied to the quality in the cup. Initially intimidated, I quickly realized that I needed to let everyone know a few key points:
Covered, raised drying racks for coffee.  Photo by Rich Futrell.
1. All of the coffees were cupped blind by their cooperative representatives first (remember the previous statement about calibrating cuppers). We had no idea whose coffee we were cupping, so there could be no favoritism, and this was a fair process.
2. While we would like to pay everyone for AAA quality or microlot prices, we can only pay them as much as we can charge our customers. The better the coffee, the more we can charge our customers. The more we can charge our customers, the more we can pay our producers. It's as simple as that.
3. We recognize that they are taking a risk by putting time, effort, and money into producing their coffee, but we are also taking a risk by buying it. While we know it is good, we are still buying containers of their coffee based on the belief that our customers will also think it's good and they will buy it. Ultimately, we might be stuck with coffee that no one wants. All along the supply chain, we are all taking—and sharing –a risk.
Washing tanks in northern Peru. Photo by Rich Futrell.
The final point that we all agreed upon that helps me sleep at night is that if we don't buy their coffee based on a low score, then they belong to a Fair Trade Organic cooperative and they will get the Fair Trade base price, which is a fair price, though lower than our Direct Trade Certified base price. We are not leaving a farmer high and dry if their coffee scores an 80. It's not a feast or famine situation. As Tim Chapdelaine was fond of saying during this trip, "Every coffee has a home."
After two hours of conversation in our steamy cinder block building, the rain subsided and we all headed to lunch together, continuing our conversations with reassurances that we will find the best way together. After a very generous lunch of roasted guinea pig and beef tripe stew, we all headed to Zacharias's farm for a tour and, yes, more debate about the washing station.
Tired and muddy, we drove the three hours back to Jaen (stopping several times for one member of our team to get sick from the dark, twisting, rough roads); met up with the rest of our group at the hotel for a quick, late dinner; and crashed hard.
Day 4
Latte art at Cenfrocafe Cafe.  Photo by Rich Futrell.
Up early for a breakfast at the Cenfrocafe Café in Jaen, where baristas pour latte art and delicious ristretto shots of Peruvian Single-Origin Espresso. When the cooperative decided to open a café in Jaen to showcase their product, KC sent his baristas in from Lima to work with the new Cenfrocafe baristas for several days.
At the beneficio, we spent an hour witnessing and recording the coffee reception process from start to finish, and then we focused on cupping about 20 different coffees with the Cenfrocafe cupping staff, working on cupping calibration and feedback for their new staff members. This was hard work and gave me a new-found respect for our coffee department and all of the work they do with the hundreds (thousands?) of samples they cup per year.
Cupping calibration played a recurring an important role in Rich's trip to Peru. Photo by Rich Futrell.
After a lunch of ceviche with the Cenfrocafe staff, we all headed back to cupping lab to continue our calibration with a number of samples of "experimental" coffees—sun dried natural process and semi-washed coffees.
At the end of this day, I was exhausted and had serious palate fatigue.
Day 5
This was our last day together and was the grand finale—after breakfast, we all headed to the Cenfrocafe offices to sit down with the cooperative management and representatives from various coffee communities. Mike McKim of Cuvee Coffee, Tim Chapdelain of Café Imports, and Chris Wade of Coffee Beans International were all going to be signing Transparency Contracts today with their respective producer groups. Before the signing ceremonies, however, the cooperative management wanted us all to have an open conversation about the potential merits and liabilities of the washing station project that had been such a hot topic over the past few days.
Semi-washed coffee beans. Photo by Rich Futrell.
The main concerns KC and Tim expressed were:
  • The elimination or reduction of lot separation
  • The overall reduction of quality of the coffee from blending lots of various qualities
  • Quality issues resulting from transporting cherry long distances and delays in transport due to road wash-outs and poor weather
  • Debt burden taken on by the cooperative and producers
  • Management of washing station (using current issues in Rwanda as an example)
We also talked about the ongoing program that Cenfrocafe has taken on whereby they have chosen 120 young people to begin a training program as cuppers. The goal is to end up with 40 trained, qualified, and certified cuppers who will act as a quality control extension from our cupping lab in Durham (and other roasters' cupping labs), to Tim's cupping lab in Portland, to KC's cupping lab in Lima, to the Cenfrocafe cupping lab,s and out into the various producer communities. This is where the focus on calibration that I've been talking about comes into play—the idea is to have everyone calibrated so that we can have a continual filter from as close to the source of the coffee as possible.
Machu Picchu! Photo by Rich Futrell.
KC's main issue with the washing station has to do with the large price tag. A fully-stocked cupping lab in Peru cost's $3,000. For the price of one washing station, 100 cupping labs can be built around the country and, in his opinion, this would have a greater impact on ultimate cup quality.
After these five exhausting days of talk, trave,l and cupping, I flew to Cusco for a few days of rest and contemplation. Peru is a big, rugged, beautiful, and complex place. I feel very fortunate to have been able to experience it first-hand.
Thank you!
Recent Updates:
In recognition of Memorial Day, we will not be roasting or shipping coffee on Monday, May 30. Orders received now through Monday at midnight will be roasted and shipped on Tuesday, May 31. Thanks for your patience and understanding. We hope that you have a great weekend!
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