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They ain’t what they Llusta be

These coffees should taste familiar, but pay attention! Take notes! Today’s tasting is the last hurrah for Toscano as portrayed by Nueva Llusta from Bolivia and Haru in the role of Apollo. Just Wednesday we began roasting and selling new versions of these well-loved coffees: the Toscano shipping now is comprised of a just-arrived lot from Union El Triunfo in Chiapas, Mexico and Apollo of Suke Quto from Sidamo, Ethiopia.

Notes on the Coffees

I get excited about new iterations of products like Toscano and Apollo because change typically means fresher components (not to mention that I love adventure of all sorts, including of flavor). In Toscano’s case, though, I will admit to feeling a twinge of wistfulness today because Toscano (NL) has been so loved and appreciated in this current form, which is especially interesting given how bright it is and how seldom we think of Toscano for brightness. That said, we bought Union El Triunfo’s coffee last year thinking it would taste good in Toscano and it did, and I’m glad to have it back this year for Toscano. This is one of the strongest co-ops in Chiapas from social and environmental perspectives, and they have great cup quality potential, too.

Haru has held steady in its role as Apollo for many months and if we had more of it to sell, I’d feel comfortable continuing to do so, given how well it and Idido have held up. Alas, we finally reached the end of last year’s Haru and this year’s lots are somewhere between Yirgacheffe and Durham, so we went looking for alternatives and found Suke Quto. Suke Quto is a delicious organic coffee from Sidamo, Ethiopia that shipped early, and that is pretty much all we know about it. We are eagerly awaiting our coffees from our long-time supplier co-ops within the YCFCU but meanwhile, Apollo’s citrusy, floral flavor profile makes it hard to substitute coffees from other parts of the world.

I wouldn’t be surprised to see the same (but are they the same?) coffees on the table next week or the one to follow, so as I said, take notes!

Rollout Dates and Availability

These lots rolled over Wednesday, April 16, and we should be working our way through them over the next month to two months.
Nuova SimonelliTogether with the crew from Nuova Simonelli, four-time Irish Barista Champion Colin Harmon will introduce, demonstrate, and discuss the brand-new Mythos One espresso grinder, with Clima Pro technology. Is this grinder the future of espresso?Does temperature in grinding really make a difference? How quiet can a commercial-grade coffee grinder be?

Join us for coffee, conversation, and light refreshments on Tuesday, April 22, at 3:00 pm, at our New York Training Center and hear what Colin has to say about this new barista tool.

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Late Bloomers

Luis Huayhua (pronounced WHY-wuh) and Justina Ramos are two members of the Cenaproc co-operative whose coffees we have isolated from that of other coffee growers in and around the town of Nueva Llusta. Our current offerings from Nueva Llusta hail from the second half of the harvest, but Justina’s name should look familiar, as we sold an early harvest lot of hers at the end of 2013 along with a single farmer coffee from Irene Gomez.

Notes on the Coffees

We are always thrilled when we find exceptionally delicious coffees and that excitement is compounded when we can attribute multiple standout coffees to the same producer, not to mention the same producer twice in a single harvest! One of the realities of working with small-scale coffee farmers, even in ideal geographic conditions, is that many of them don’t exercise the level of control or monitoring of their processes necessary to create top-notch quality day in and day out. After only one year, we certainly don’t know Justina Ramos, her farm or her processes well enough to make sweeping pronouncements, but years of experience buying (and researching!) single-farmer lots have taught us that feedback is important, as is drawing a clear relationship between farming practices and taste quality. We have ten years of history with the Cenaproc co-op and we hope for at least ten more, so we are deep into our thinking about how to support members with standout coffees - Justina Ramos, Irene Gomez, Luis Huayhua (of whom we have more pictures than of all other Bolivian coffee producers put together, I’m certain) - and bring more growers, and more coffee, to a level of quality that is consistent. In our departmental cuppings, the Huayhua lot has nudged out the Ramos, but it’s anyone’s game on Friday and I’d love to hear your votes.

Rollout Dates and Availability

The Ramos lot will be available for ordering on Friday! Depending on how quickly we move through that lot, we may sell the two coffees side-by-side or we may begin selling the Huayhua lot when we run out of Ramos’s coffee. We have a total of four single-farmer lots from this shipment of Nueva Llusta to roll out, so you have even more to look forward to!

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Thrice is nice

Our late harvest lot from Nueva Llusta is holding strong as we prepare to shift our attention from the southern hemisphere to the northern hemisphere.

Notes on the Coffees

Counter Culture ended up with more coffee from Nueva Llusta than we expected from 2013’s harvest, which almost never happens, and was especially surprising given that we spent years struggling to get anything remotely good, much less great, from the Cenaproc co-operative. We put pressure on Pedro Patana, the manager of Cenaproc, to ship coffee early and succeeded in getting the earliest arrival from Bolivia that we have ever experienced (and the best-tasting coffee from Nueva Llusta we have purchased, to boot). In the midst of emails about shipping the early lot, Pedro mentioned that twenty of their members beyond the twenty-eight contributing to the first lot wanted to submit coffee from their farms to us. We are pleased and proud that our project has gained such traction in Nueva Llusta that farmers are hearing about it and looking for ways to get involved, and we are already planning how we can do more in Bolivia in 2014.

Rollout Dates and Availability

We just began selling this second lot and we expect to keep them in stock through the month of May.
If you're in the Raleigh-Durham area this week, we're supporting two great events with coffee service: the Full Frame documentary film festival and All About Beer's World Beer Festival.

The Full Frame documentary film festival is running from Thursday, April 3, through Saturday, April 6, in Durham and is an annual international event dedicated to the theatrical exhibition of non-fiction cinema. Check out their website for details and a schedule.

The World Beer Festival, taking place in Raleigh on Saturday, April 5, is a chance to sample from more than 250 craft and specialty beers from around the world.





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Toscano Times Two


Ta da! Today, two Toscanos tickle your tastebuds! Each bag represents a different incarnation of Toscano, with the bag labeled Ecuador representing the most recent recipe we have been selling and the bag labeled Costa Rica the version that becomes available today (and by today I mean today, Thursday, March 20th).

Notes on the Coffees

Toscano Ecuador

The coffee that we had contracted for 2013 from the Fapecafes co-operative of Loja, Ecuador and which we were planning to sell as El Gavilán lacked the brightness and sweetness we expect from that coffee. While we opted not to feature the coffee as a straight, seasonal offering, we suspected it would taste good in Toscano. We also knew that the co-op’s members were struggling with coffee leaf rust and would be hard pressed to find another buyer for this coffee that didn’t meet CCC’s high standard but was still a far cry from average in value or quality. So we sacrificed our hopes for El Gavilán this year and bought coffee for Toscano and some really-great-but-really-small single-farmer lots.

Toscano Costa Rica

Between 2008, which was the last year in which we sold Cerro del Fuego (old-timers, you know what I’m talking about), and today your coffee department has tasted dozens of coffees from Costa Rica but declined to purchase any of them. Though some of these coffees have been delicious, they have also cost significantly more than coffees of comparable quality from elsewhere in the Americas, and the price-to-quality relationship tends to be especially skewed with organic coffees. In short, they haven’t been a good fit. So what makes today’s coffee different? The Costa Rican coffee that we will be using for Toscano for the next few weeks comes from six small estates (today’s is Linda Vista) located near the farm of a fellow named Tim O’Brien. We were introduced to Tim a few years ago as an employee of an importer we do business with and he is now building his own importing business. He’s excited and motivated to do good work for CCC, so we bought the best coffees he was offering from the 2012/2013 harvest both in order to get our relationship with him started on a good foot and to continue pushing to get better, sweeter coffees into Toscano. All of these coffees were dried with a focus on water activity and low moisture, which has helped their stability, and I think you’ll like the way they taste. 

Rollout Dates and Availability

We just began selling Toscano (Costa Rica) today and we will probably only have it for two weeks or so before we move into another coffee. What coffee, you ask? Well, it depends on what arrives and tastes right in these next two weeks. Never a dull moment here in the coffee department.
Merge Records 25K Our Durham neighbor Merge Records is turning 25 this year. On March 22, we're lending a hand for the first celebratory event of their anniversary year, Merge 25K—a 25 km (15.5 miles) road race—by providing pre-race coffee for runners and volunteers.

An unconventional point-to-point race, participants will convene at the starting line in Chapel Hill, NC—where Merge had its beginnings—and race to the finish in their current home, Durham, a few miles down the road from our roasting facility, Training Center, and HQ.

Finish line festivities will be held at Motorco Music Hall and feature performances from The Love Language and Vertical Scratchers .

The race will help to raise donations for the Food Bank of Central & Eastern North Carolina and Habitat for Humanity of Durham and Orange counties. The Merge 25K is presented in partnership with Bull City Running Co.

Registration at SportOften.com. Visit the race page for more details.

Merge is one of the most widely respected labels in the world, representing artists such as Arcade Fire, Spoon, the Magnetic Fields, She & Him, Destroyer, and many more.

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Lot Breakdown of La Golondrina

Right now, we are usually finishing our main harvest (April–July or August) lots of La Golondrina and moving into the mitaca harvest (October–January) lots. This year, however, the producers of La Golondrina didn't have a good mitaca harvest, and we were unable to purchase any of that harvest. This means that we have are still clinging on to the last lot we have from the main harvest. We are going to move through this lot quickly, as we're approaching the time when we normally see some slight quality drop. Nonetheless, I hope that this lot is a noticeable step up from the last one—even though it is only from about a month or two difference.

Notes on the Coffees

La Golondrina – "Past"

This coffee was harvested in April and May 2013. We used this until a few weeks ago.

La Golondrina – "Present"

This coffee was harvested in June and July 2013. This went into La Golondrina a little more than a week ago and will last a couple of months.

Rollout Dates and Availability

La Golondrina has been a year-round single-origin for some time now, but we will likely run out by early May.

–Tim
 

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