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Hi, all,
Children of farmers in Colombia who are part of Counter Culture Coffee's La Golondrina project.
Many of you met Liliana Pabón, part of our La Golondrina partnership, on her trip to the States with her husband Nelson in February. The other day I received a really nice e-mail from her with news from the farmer group from which Counter Culture Coffee sources our La Golondrina (the Organic Association of Coffee Producers of Cauca, usually referred to as simply Organica). She and Nelson have been doing presentations for growers about their trip to the States which have been very successful at motivating their farmer members. Liliana says:
"We have done a variety of events with the growers and held meetings to recount the experiences of our trip and everything that we shared with all of you in the USA. We showed photographs and short videos and we distributed the certificates that you all sent down, which serve to motivate the growers and help reinforce their commitment to the organization, Organica, that we continue to develop. Even though this year we've seen lower yields in the harvest and the internal market here in Colombia isn't the best for us, we see a lot of optimism and enthusiasm in our producer members. Once again, THANK YOU for everything and we hope to see you and everyone from Counter Culture here in Colombia very soon." [*for the growing number of Spanish speakers and readers, I included the original text at the bottom of the update.]
Certificates were part of a project that Counter Culture Coffee undertook to recognize the 60-plus farmers of Organica around Popayán whose coffee we purchased in 2008 and to build the brand of La Golondrina.
The certificates that she mentions were a project that Counter Culture Coffee undertook to recognize the 60-plus farmers of Organica around Popayán whose coffee we purchased in 2008 and to build the brand of La Golondrina. Remember that last year was the first year in which we stepped out of the competition to commit to a relationship with one association, Organica, and work on getting to know them and improving quality with them over the years to come. We are thrilled to have made this progress, and we hope that the growers feel the same way about leaving the competition behind for a more secure, sustainable model. We believe that a long-term relationship benefits all of us and it seems to be working: from what we know of the harvest that's underway, the farmers of Organica that Counter Culture works with are tendering more coffee than anyone else! ¡Espectacular!
Enjoy the attached pictures and enjoy drinking La Golondrina, while it lasts. I know I'm already looking forward to our 2009 lot!
Volando directo,
Kim Elena
* En español: Hemos estado en diferentes eventos y reuniones contando la experiencia de nuestro viaje y todo lo que pudimos compartir con ustedes alla en USA. Les mostramos muchas fotografias y algunos videos cortos e hicimos la entrega de los certificados enviados por ustedes eso sirvio mucho para motivar y lograr mayor compromiso de ellos en todo el proceso organizativo que desde ORGANICA venimos desarrollando. Aun cuando en este año los volumenes de cosecha y la situacion del mercado interno de cafe (En Colombia) no es la mejor, vemos que hay mucho animo y optimismo por parte de nuestros productores. Nuevamente GRACIAS por todo ... esperamos poder verte a ti y a toda la gente de COUNTER CULTURE muy pronto aca en Colombia.
Brian Ludviksen (center) with 2009 World Barista Champ Gwilym Davies and 2007 winner James Hoffmann.
Source or origin trips often bring us to coffee farms and washing stations, but I recently traveled afar to make a different kind of source trip; an espresso machine source trip. Most, if not all, of you are familiar with La Marzocco, the espresso machine manufacturer that Counter Culture has worked with for many years, which is located in Florence, Italy. I spent a week with the La Marzocco family in early June, with a brief stop in London to visit with Square Mile Roastery and our old friend and World Barista Championship Executive Director, Cindy Chang. The trip was very informative. l learned a lot, experienced a lot, and snapped a lot of pictures. I want to share this with all of you with the hopes of bringing a little of this source back to everyone at Counter Culture Coffee.
Before heading directly to our espresso machine source in Firenze, I spent a little time with our friends James Hoffman and Anette Moldvaer at Square Mile Roastery. We were lucky enough to be joined for much of our mischief by 2009 World Barista champ Gwilym Davies and WBC exec-director, Cindy Chang. I often hear horror stories about culinary experiences in London, but I found that the city and its denizens had a myriad of pleasures for the palate. Aside from tasty local favorites like Toad-in-a-hole and crackerlings and apple sauce, London has wonderful markets teeming with savory sausages and a moon's worth of cheese. Neal's Yard Dairy was one of the more spectacular places we visited and is to cheese what Counter Culture is to coffee. Oddly enough, one of the favorites during our tastings was a recent import from Wisconsin! Teasmith, located in Spitalfields Market, also brought to mind the Counter Culture ethos as we cupped various teas and learned about the cultivation and processing that makes teas distinct and unique.
Terra Cotta rooftops in Italy near Florence and the La Marzocco factory. Photo by Biran Ludviksen,
As I hobbled down cobblestone streets from market to market, I was fortunate enough to get taste of Square Mile's coffee at a number of great coffee spots in London; Dose, Flat White, Milkbar, Bitter Taste of Love, to name a few. Gwilym's coffee cart in the Columbia Road flower market was one of the more charming coffee experiences of the trip. Pictured in this month's issue of Barista magazine and nestled in a colorful labyrinth of flower vendors, Gwilym is serving up scores of "flat whites" next to a constant line of locals that venture out on the only day the market is open. A little deeper into the city, Milkbar and its sister shop, Flat White, offered great coffee with in a more urban and traditional coffee shop style. With celebrity sightings (like, OMG, I hear Kiera Knightley was totally here the other day) and England holding the current "cup" in the industry, it's no surprise that London's coffee scene is very hot!
The folks at the La Marzocco factory welcomed Brian with open arms and made him feel right at home with a cookout. Photo by Brian Ludviksen.
My cupping spoon was confiscated in Rome and my luggage was lost by the time I landed in Florence, but that was definitely not a foreshadowing of the future, as La Marzocco welcomed me with open arms. Many of the remote employees were in town for meetings and there was a company-wide cook out so my timing couldn't have been better. Downtown Florence is a smattering of leather shops, cafes, and gelato shops that trail from the Ufizzi to the Duomo and all along the Arno, but the country side offers a more relaxing view of terracotta tile rooftops and olive tree groves hugging rolling hilltops. It is in these rolling hills that La Marzocco lies, nestled in the scenery as if on a postcard. The factory and the folks that work in it reminded me so much of Counter Culture that it was easy to feel at home amongst all the friendly people and great espresso machines. My first day there was nothing but fun and nothing short of amazing. I was treated to a factory tour followed by a "family dinner" that would have been unrecognizable from a NC cook-out (known as a barbeque to northerners) aside from the folk songs afterwards being sung in Italian. We drank Chianti and listened to La Marzocco's Export Manager, Chris Salierno, play the guitar and sing into the late hours of the night. The next days in the factory were equally entertaining but weren't accompanied by as much wine and music.
The La Marzocco factory. Photo by Brian Ludviksen.
The factory is pretty simple for the caliber of product produced, which also was reminiscent of Counter Culture. The espresso machines are born in the welding and body assembly lines, where the infrastructure is established. The machines are then wired and bench tested at several points before being packaged for shipment. Other than the production operations, the building houses some of the coolest machines from La Marzocco's early days. La Marzocco is considered a small and family-based company compared to other machine manufacturers, with just less than 3,000 units produced in 2008, but they are definitely leading the charge in the espresso machine industry. Started more than 80 years ago by his grandfather, Piero Bambi and his team of machine professionals have continuously raised the bar in the industry. La Marzocco was the first company to use horizontal boilers, separate boilers dedicated for coffee making and steam making, and now a new prototype machine is looking to bring even more to the table in 2010.
Vintage La Marzocco espresso machines. Photo by Brian Ludviksen.
This new prototype was first introduced at the 2009 Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) show in Atlanta and has been given the working title of the "Barista Machine." Since temperature stability is required to get to bat nowadays, La Marzocco is hoping to hit a home run with honing in on pressure and flow rate profiling. The Barista Machine will have boilers and pumps that are dedicated per group. The pumps are smaller, more efficient pumps that are housed internally (goodbye, external pumps!) and controlled dynamically by the lever that activates the group. As the barista moves the lever, the group valve opens and the pressure and flow rate will increase or decrease as the lever is moved from left to right. A programmable option also allows for the user to save any profile, per group, allowing programmed pours for each individual group. Although most would argue that the pressure profiling is the most exciting and defining characteristic presented by La Marzocco in the Barista Machine, there are several other innovations that will be coming with the new machines that are equally exciting. Cool-touch steam wands are on the near horizon and nearly all steam valves coming out of La Marzocco now have vacuum breakers on them making steam wand cleaning easier than it ever has been. Steam wand tips are also a hot topic, and I saw several prototype designs that will be groundbreaking. The new machine will have exposed groups, meaning that the espresso extracting experience will be in clear view of the operator and have no need for additional lighting. Also, portafilter basket design is under way and the days of the ridged baskets are waning.
This new machine concept is being driven by a highly experienced, talented team at La Marzocco, but has been aided by a new council they've put together, the La Marzocco Street Team. With its inaugural meeting during the SCAA show in Atlanta, the newly formed group of international espresso machine and industry experts will serve as a board of advisory for La Marzocco. As many of you know, Counter Culture Coffee has been asked to be represented on the team, and I am lucky enough to have that honor. In that capacity, Counter Culture is working directly with La Marzocco on everything from machine concept to application to support and truly on the frontier of espresso machine development.
So, taken in spirit, source can mean many things when it comes to excellent coffee, from farmers to roasters to machine manufacturers to shop owners. Hopefully by sharing this experience everyone has some understanding of the efforts involved in making (and choosing) excellent equipment and the detail to which Counter Culture works with companies to ensure that every product Counter Culture endorses embodies the spirit of our company vision statement. I look forward to sharing more of these experiences with each of you in the future; until then … Ciao!
The La Marzocco factory in Florence, Italy. Photo by Brian Luviksen.Source or origin trips often bring us to coffee farms and washing stations, but Counter Culture Coffee's Technical Services Manager Brian Ludviksen recently traveled afar to make a different kind of source trip; an espresso machine source trip. Some of you may be familiar with La Marzocco, the espresso machine manufacturer that Counter Culture has worked with for many years, which is located in Florence, Italy. Brian spent a week at the La Marzocco factory in early June, with a brief stop in London to visit with Square Mile Roastery, and our old friend and World Barista Championship Executive Director, Cindy Chang.

It's a different type of "trip to origin" than we're used to, but very interesting, nonetheless. Read Brian's trip report in our Origins section.


Photo taken near Lintong Sumatra, by Counter Culture Coffee.
Happy Holidays, my friends!
Nope, I'm not wishing you a belated Flag Day or an early Summer Solstice; I'm referring to the past-but-not-forgotten holidays of late 2008. You may recall that thanks to the combined efforts of Counter Culture Coffee, our customers, and lovers of deep, delicious Dolok Sanggul everywhere, we raised more money through sales of our Holiday Blend in 2008 than in any prior year! Huzzah!
Counter Culture Coffee teamed up with Volkopi Indonesia, our exporter partner in Medan, Sumatra, to choose a project to fund with the money raised from the sales of Dolok Sanggul and together we chose the Lintong Coffee School in Lintong Nihuta, the town next to Dolok Sanggul. The Coffee School was built in 2007 as a resource for the coffee community of this region and, according to Volkopi's General Manager Dariusz Lewandowski, is "meant for gatherings of farmers and anyone related to the coffee business." In Sumatra, the "coffee business" can be complex, with a supply chain that includes growers, collectors, and processors, and most of these stakeholders have little access to the kind of training infrastructure that could help them improve their coffee quality and thereby obtain higher prices.
The Lintong Coffee School has also become a school for the coffee supply chain's children, who come twice a week to take English classes.
Over the past two years, Volkopi has organized groups of 30 farmers at a time to come to the school for trainings. One ongoing initiative of 20 women, called Kelompok Kartini, has planted 4,000 seedlings under the advisement of Volkopi's agronomist that has become a model for training other growers and building their skills. Unfortunately, the training progress is slow because the growers—in Sumatra, as everywhere—are too busy to meet and quite challenging to organize!
In the meantime, the Lintong Coffee School has also become a school for the coffee supply chain's children, who come twice a week to take English classes. While English is not widely spoken in rural Indonesia, it is increasingly relevant—especially in the coffee business—and the kids and community are excited enough about this opportunity (that they would not otherwise have) to ask for more resources and formal instruction to be dedicated to English than they have thus far received from the English-speaking staff at Volkopi.
The $6,700 raised by the sales of Counter Culture Coffee Dolok Sanggul Holiday Blend to supply the school with 40 desks, a whiteboard, and sets of books and other instructional materials (like audio) that the children can use to continue their studies. Photo by Counter Culture Coffee.
The school still lacks the resources necessary for holding formal classes, so Volkopi suggested that we use the $6,700 raised by our Dolok Sanggul Holiday Blend to supply the school with 40 desks, a whiteboard, and sets of books and other instructional materials (like audio) that the children can use to continue their studies. Hopefully, the small-town school will continue to expand its offering of classes for farmers and their kids!
I have requested updated photographs of the children and the school from Volkopi because I love watching the whole project-development process unfold. Everyone who enjoyed last year's Holiday Coffee has reason to feel proud of the school's continuing success and I'll keep you all in the loop with dispatches as I receive them! Now, go drink some Dolok Sanggul.
raising my glass (mug),
Kim Elena
Fabio and Caballero and his daughter Marysabel of Finca El Puente in Marcala, Honduras, joking around with Kim Elena Bullock over coconuts. Photo by Tim Hill.
Tim and I headed north to the commercial city of San Pedro Sula, where we said farewell to Roberto and greeted Marysabel Caballero and her father, Fabio. Fabio's humor and Marysabel's joie de vivre are infectious, and every time we're together I am reminded of what I mean when I tell people that our grower partners treat us like family, and vice versa.
Though San Pedro Sula is smaller than Honduras' capital city, Tegucigalpa, it plays an undeniably important role in Honduran coffee in general and, more specifically, in Counter Culture Coffee's lot of Finca El Puente. The climate of San Pedro Sula is a source of frustration to anyone who purchases coffee from Honduras, because almost all of the country's coffee is milled and stored here before it ships, and the city's constant heat and humidity is unbelievable and, for coffee, unbearable. Personally, I kind of like it, but coffee needs a cool, dry environment or it risks losing delicate, delicious flavors to woody, flat ones. Buyers like Counter Culture Coffee are bending over backwards to avoid that crash by using special bags to protect the coffee from moist, hot air, and by trying to insure that coffee spends as little time as possible in SPS, but ultimately we know that the city jeopardizes great coffee.
The climate of San Pedro Sula is a source of frustration to anyone who purchases coffee from Honduras, because almost all of the country’s coffee is milled and stored here before it ships, and the city’s constant heat and humidity is unbelievable and, for coffee, unbearable. Photo by Kim Elena Bullock.
Whenever we're in SPS, we spend time cupping with Boncafe's cuppers, exporter Cristian Lesage, and the Caballero/Herrera family, and this trip was no different: we tasted 30 samples from different parcels and pickings of the farm that ranged in quality from just-okay coffee to truly beautiful coffee. To build our lot of coffee, we cup the best samples again at our lab here in North Carolina, rank them, and purchase the ones at the top of the list. After the morning's focused cupping session, we spent time relaxing, enjoying each other's company and talking about life and all of the Counter Culture Coffee employees, customers and friends that Marysabel and Fabio remember from their trip to North Carolina – for anyone who missed it, Counter Culture Coffee had the great pleasure of hosting Fabio, Marysabel, and Moises and their children, Ezri and Fabio Moises, for events in three of our training centers in August of 2007.
We jumped back into the world of coffee when we arrived at the family's home in Marcala, in the southern region of La Paz. Moises held down the fort around the farm and mill while Marysabel and Fabio met us in San Pedro Sula, and he was ready to talk processing and quality as soon as he saw us: we were immediately whisked away to the farm's mill, Xinacla, where we discussed some of the improvements that they have made over this past season. The biggest changes, and those that we spent the most time discussing on this trip and in the weeks that led up to this trip, were changes in the farm's drying process from all-mechanically-dried processing to some-mechanical-some-patio-dried processing. Why the change? Well, there are a couple of reasons, but the first one is, unsurprisingly, cup quality. This year's coffee from Finca El Puente aged unusually rapidly, and while we're all for seasonality and using coffee while it's at its peak, 2008's lot dropped so precipitously that we chose to pull it out of our rotation even before it went out of season. Mechanical coffee dryers have a bad reputation when it comes to their effect on cup quality and coffee longevity: we suspect that even the greatest coffee, when dried at high temperatures in mechanical dryers, loses positive cup characteristics (like the signature floral, berry, and otherwise "purple" flavors of Finca El Puente) to unpleasant cup characteristics (like woody, papery flavors) much more quickly than it should. It's also important to mention that this bad reputation is somewhat undeserved, because when mechanical dryers run at low temperatures, they can do a good job drying coffee.
But putting the ins and outs of drying aside, this year's cup-quality issue put our whole supply chain on red alert and we have been working, as a group, to insure that we don't have the same problem again this year. Investigating the role of the mechanical dryer is an example of the effort that the growers are making to insure quality in the cup, because drying coffee on patios takes longer and requires more labor, which makes it more expensive than mechanical drying. The family has worked closely with all of the farm's employees to improve the standard of ripeness for coffee picked this year, as well, which should help the coffees' sweetness and endurance. The exporter, Boncafe, has also committed to doing their part by moving Finca El Puente's coffee out of San Pedro Sula's humid climate as quickly as possible and particularly avoiding the delays that may have negatively affected last year's lot. At the mill and on the farm, we spent a lot of time talking through each step of the process together and all of us – Finca El Puente, Boncafe and Counter Culture Coffee – are all confident that this year's coffee will taste better and last longer than last year's coffee.
Tim Hill and Kim Elena Bullock touring the farm that produces Counter Culture Coffee's deicious Finca El Puente.
None of us would have chosen to have a coffee-quality problem, of course, but times like these are good reminders of what strong relationships are like: not only are we not giving up and working on the problem together, we're also promising to be completely honest about the risks we're taking and the reservations we have about the process. We recognize that to move forward, we need to learn from each year's challenges and adjust our actions and expectations accordingly. This coffee, and this relationship, is too important to us to lose over one year's disappointment! So we're pressing ahead with high hopes, lots of communication and copious taste-testing and comparative cupping throughout the year.
On the farm the next day after seeing the changes at Xinacla, we visited some of our favorite parts of Finca El Puente, including Los Cipreses, where the altitude and cool climate contribute to a much later ripening period – I'm talking loads of green coffee on the trees in the middle of March, when the rest of the farm is easing off production – and the beautiful waterfall, ensconced and protected by the farm, that inspired the coffee's icon. We admired Fabio's composting project, which uses coffee pulp and the manure from his cows, toured through downtown Marcala and finished the day with a family dinner, more stories, and a renewed sense of commitment to one another. I'm proud of the work we're doing and our collective dedication (which includes the dedication of the coffee drinkers among you!) to Finca El Puente's delicious coffee. I am looking forward to a great cup when the new crop arrives!
Kim Elena
Roberto Salazar walking the farm at Finca Pashapa in Ocotepeque, Honduras. Photo by Kim Elena Bullock.
The journey continues! After crossing the border between Esquipulas, Guatemala, and Nueva Ocotepeque, Honduras, in a taxi that reeked of gasoline fumes and broke down twice (even the dull moments aren't entirely dull on these trips), Tim and I met up with Roberto Salazar, the man driving the success of the incomparable Finca Pashapa. Counter Culture's relationship with Finca Pashapa is one of our oldest—going on seven years!—and, as we drove to the farm, we reminisced with Roberto about how much both of our operations have grown and changed in the intervening years. Once known as Organic French Roast, we now recognize the Salazar family's coffee as Finca Pashapa, and we've never felt better about the always-sweet, silky-bodied, and balanced coffee the farm produces.
If you remember nothing else about Roberto from Finca Pashapa trip reports and coffee biographies, you probably remember that this farm has the most impressive worm composting system I have ever seen, and, in fact, that system is a major contributing factor to Pashapa's economic sustainability as well as environmental sustainability because it helps them to make all of the compost that their farm requires. All of it! That's amazing!
Finca Pashapa demonstrates that it is possible to manufacture all of the necessary fertilizers on the farm using materials found on the farm. Roberto Salazar's extensive worm cultures contribute tremendously to this end. Photo by Kim Elena Bullock.
I find this so inspiring because organic agriculture requires, of course, that growers comply with rules about what kind of inputs (like fertilizers and herbicides) they can apply to their plants but also stipulates monitoring the health of the soil that they cultivate. Healthy soil (as well as healthy coffee plants) requires a mixture of nutrients and providing those nutrients organically tends to be more expensive for growers than applying synthetic fertilizers. Those higher costs are a major challenge for many certified organic farms as well as an obstacle for many sustainably-minded small farms considering certification.
When a farm like Finca Pashapa demonstrates that it is possible to manufacture all of the necessary fertilizers on the farm using materials found on the farm, my heart soars and I feel a renewed commitment to supporting our certified organic grower partners and further promoting organic agriculture with those partners not yet certified. Did I mention that Finca Pashapa also have some of the highest and most stable yields of coffee per hectare of any organic farm I have seen, anywhere? Double-amazing!
Roberto Salazar and Kim Elena examine drying coffee beans at Finca Pashapa. Photo by Tim Hill.
Finca Pashapa might seem too good to be true except that they came to this holistic approach and integrated farming system by way of multiple generations of chemical-fertilizer, conventional coffee farming. According to Roberto, the family's quest to become the model organic farmers they are today began little over a decade ago when they recognized that in milling coffee at their house without regard for the water and waste created in the process, they had become the biggest polluters in their town. The impact of their actions dawned on them, and they started looking for opportunities to improve, and there's something in the Salazar blood that drives them to grab hold of an idea and not let go until they've figured it out.
Their approach to quality began the same way, with a cupping class that initially made Roberto laugh before he tried it (Slurping? Spitting? Is this for real?), but he enjoyed it and decided that he wanted to be good at it. Since that first day 8 years ago, he has gone on to serve as a judge in Cup of Excellence competitions in Honduras, worked on establishing and promoting the variety of flavor profiles of Honduras's diverse-but-generally-undifferentiated coffee regions, and forged the first farmer-run lot-separation program with the co-operative that he works with in La Labor.
Tim and I had the chance to cup the year's first offerings from this per-producer lot-separation program, and we were thrilled by what we found. We have a treat in store for you all this year! And what is said treat? Well, dear readers, I plan to leave you in suspense knowing that Tim, Roasting Manager and head of Counter Culture Coffee quality control, will surely weigh in on the cupping results and what's in store for all of us. Stay tuned!
Kim Elena
Coffee cherries ripening on a shrub in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Photo by Tim Hill.
You might think that the car picking me up from San Salvador breaking down less than 2 miles from the airport would be bad sign of things to come on this trip, but I knew that I was going to see Aida Batlle and Finca Mauritania so that was going to be impossible. After a quick 2 hour drive, well, and a little bit of waiting for alternate transportation, I arrived at Las Cruces – the mill where our Los Luchadores coffee comes from. Immediately upon arriving at Las Cruces, something caught my eye. Kenya drying beds. What? There is only one person that could have been responsible for this. And come to think of it, I believe the very first conversation that Peter had with Aida – over 5 years ago now – was actually about Kenya drying beds for coffee. It turns out Aida had them built to do some experiments with drying coffee and coffee pulp for the now very popular Cascara. But I will talk about that later.
Aida Batlle stands at one of her raised, Kenya-style drying bed in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Photo by Tim Hill.
Aida met me at Las Cruces, and we quickly caught up and talked about the coffee world and El Salvador politics. (If you haven't seen the papers, El Salvador had a presidential election right after I left, and it was in the minds of everyone when I was down there.) We also, of course, talked about her coffees and some of the exciting things she is working on. After a quick walk around the mill it was off to dinner, then bed so we could get a jump on the next day, when we would visit Aida's farms.
In 2007 I visited Finca Mauritania while Aida was in her third year of transitioning to organic production and, while everything looked really good, it didn't look like it does now. Everything now seems just a little bit lusher, a little bit greener, a little bit more shaded, and just a little bit happier. It was a great thing to see, and Aida talked about how the transition to organic was very hard but that was just the beginning. Now, the challenge is to make it really work and to breathe new life into everything through the many things she continues to learn.
After visiting Finca Mauritania, it was a quick little drive up the side of Santa Ana volcano to visit Finca Kilimanjaro. From first glance, it was apparent that Aida had been very busy. Finca Kilimanjaro also looked better, as well, much better. Aida said that Kilimanjaro and Los Alpes (another one of her farms) had been even more challenging than Mauritania because of the higher altitude, and that there is still a long way to go, but overall she was excited by the progress. Oh, and as a huge, awesome side note: this year Counter Culture is going to be able to purchase coffee from Finca Kilimanjaro!!! If you remember it from 2 years ago, I am sure your mouth is watering already.
Coffee cherries drying on a raised bed in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Photo by Tim Hill.With the all the excitement over the farms and the great things Aida has been working on, I almost forgot to ask about Pasa and Pulp Natural. Before I left for El Salvador, Peter warned me that 2 weeks prior there had been some unseasonable rains that could potentially make Pasa not happen this year. And, sadly that was true. Just like tomatoes, if rain comes at the wrong time, the fruit can split, and if you leave it on the tree (like Aida does for Pasa) the fruit can rot. However, being super-creative, Aida decided that while Pasa wasn't going to be possible, she could do a Sundried Natural more akin to the process in Ethiopia … so, this year, we will have Pulp Natural processed coffee and a natural sundried Finca Mauritania. After seeing and talking about all those coffees, I couldn't wait for the next day when I would actually get to taste them.
So, onward to the tasting. At Las Cruces the next day, the Sundried Natural Finca Mauritania was absolutely delicious – full of creamy fruit and chocolate which I don't think anyone will be disappointed in. I tasted this year's Pulp Natural, as well – and I see espresso in its future. I also got to taste this years washed Finca Mauritania and Finca Kilimanjaro, which were both mind-blowing. And, to my surprise I also got to taste some of this years Cascara. For those of you that didn't get to try it this past year, Aida took the skin from the coffee cherry and dried it out to make a tea. This has been done traditionally in Yemen and Kenya but never have I heard of in El Salvador. The best part about it is that because of Aida's exemplary picking of the coffee to begin with, the tea is so much sweeter and juicier than any of versions I have tasted in the past. This year in particular, she has improved the process, and we are expecting some great Cascara.
This year's Los Luchadores will come from Finca Las Delicias, a farm in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Photo by Tim Hill.If all that weren't enough, after the Cascara, it was time to taste this year's Los Luchadores. The last two years, we have bought our Los Luchadores Pacamara from a farm in Metapán, El Salvador, called Finca Buenos Aires. This year that particular farm wanted to submit their Pacamara into the Cup of Excellence, and while we were disappointed that we couldn't buy it for Los Luchadores we wish them luck in the competition. Anyway, from the cupping table of Pacamara coffees one stood out immediately. The coffee was floral, full of deep, dark plum, black cherry, prune, savory tomato, with a crisp brightness, and in the end turned out to have that signature syrupy body. After cupping, Aida asked which one I liked best, and I said without hesitation, “Finca Las Delicias.” To which she said “Oh! Perfect that is where we are going right now." I love instant gratification!! So, off we went. We started driving to Finca Las Delicias and I couldn't quite put my finger on it but everything seemed very familiar. It was driving me crazy and then Aida said, “This side of the volcano is really different.” So long story short and oddly enough, Finca Las Delicias is on the Santa Ana volcano … just on the other side than Finca Mauritania. I guess there is something about the microclimates around the volcano.
A beautiful view of volcanic terrain in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Photo by Tim Hill.
When we arrived at the farm – after some rough roads that had clearly been affected by the eruption 2 years ago – I couldn't believe the view from the farm.
The farm was great, I got to see the section where most of the Pacamara is planted and a lot of pre-mill cherry sorting. I can say is it was really all awe-inspiring, and I can't wait for the next lot of Los Luchadores. Wow, what a day. What a four days!
Next: I was off to Guatemala to meet up with Kim Elena and onto Finca Pashapa.
Mango, papaya, and other fresh fruit sold on the street outside the airport in Guatemala City. Photo by Kim Elena Bullock.I arrived to warm, breezy weather in Guatemala City and had just enough time to eat a mango and some papaya on the street outside the airport before I was picked up by Javier Recinos – twin brother and farm-managing partner of
Jorge Recinos, who has been our main contact at the farm – and Javier's wife, Carla. I admit that I didn't immediately recognize that it wasn't Jorge, having not seen them in almost two years and, well, them being twins and all, but it didn't take me too long to figure it out and, thankfully, I didn't embarrass myself. Our first order of business was a big family dinner with Jorge, his wife Ana, and their kids, as well as Noemi and Antonio, the matriarch and patriarch of this warm, friendly family. As you may recall from Counter Culture's past trip reports, Finca Nueva Armenia is pretty remote: an 8-hour trip from Guatemala City, in fact. Jorge and Javier each spend two weeks a month at the farm and two weeks in Guatemala City, and on our last visit Antonio kept us entertained during our journey by eating a gigantic bag of candy, pestering Jorge the whole way, and telling stories of his youthful adventures on the farm. Unfortunately, Antonio's health has deteriorated and his trips to the farm are more rare, and, in order to keep the whole family together for this relationship-building visit, we stayed in Guatemala City, where we would also be able to cup coffee together and visit the mill where the coffee is processed for export.
Rather than make the long trip to Finca Nueva Armenia, Kim Elena stayed in Guatemala City for this visit, where she was able to cup coffee with the Recinos and visit the mill where the coffee is processed for export. Photo by Kim Elena Bullock.
And, although Counter Culture's last trip to Finca Nueva Armenia was a short one (curtailed by a strike on the main highway that forced us to leave earlier than we had planned), it was easy to pick up conversation where we left off at the last visit and over our days together we discussed everything from coffee drying methods to politics to family. Since the last time we sat at a table together, Jorge and his wife Ana had a baby girl, Javier finished his graduate degree, and the farm has decided to submit coffee to the 2009 Cup of Excellence Competition in Guatemala! Big news all around. We have really improved our communication with the Recinos family over the past year and the process has had its challenges: though Javier and Jorge are young (38), they were raised on Finca Nueva Armenia in a culture of roaster-grower relationships that didn't entail visits, e-mail conversation, and supply-chain transparency. Counter Culture has worked hard this year to bring the whole supply chain relationship into line with our Direct Trade purchasing model and gain everyone's trust, and we have high expectations for this relationship and the coffee that comes out of it over the next few years. This year, we have doubled the amount of coffee that we buy from the farm, which is great news for the Recinoses and for all of our customers: this has been one of the most consistent, delicious coffees we have had from Central America and it comes from a farm with an incredible commitment to the environment. In addition to adopting organic certification early (the late 1990s), Finca Nueva Armenia completed the process of certifying the old-growth, diverse canopy of shade on their farm with the Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center's Bird-Friendly seal last year and they have also recently joined a national association to designate their farm as a private natural reserve. I often say that organic farming is so much more of a commitment to the soil, water, and environment than most consumers realize when they hear "no synthetic chemicals," but the dedication that these guys have to conservation on their farm is like none I have ever seen.
Twin brothers Javier and Jorge Recinos cupping their family coffee from Finca Nueva Armenia in Guatemala City in March 2009. Photo by Kim Elena.
This year's harvest has just ended at Finca Nueva Armenia, and I was lucky enough to cup a few samples from the farm, including their Cup of Excellence lot, with the brothers Recinos at the offices of CAMEC, the exporter. These guys have little experience with lot separation for cup quality, only for size and density of bean, so I did everything I could to get them excited about the cupping process and the potential for recognizing some amazing small lots of coffee if they separate their Typica variety coffee from their Bourbon variety, for example. Both Counter Culture's lot and the Cup of Excellence lot come from a part of the farm that is almost entirely Typica variety and both coffees were deliciously sweet with a juicy, orange-y acidity. We also visited the mill where the Recinoses process their coffee, and I got to see Counter Culture's lot waiting in the all-important reposo, or rest, phase before export in April. I can hardly wait!
After a great few days together, it was time for me to jump on a bus and head east to Esquipulas – home to a famous carving of Christ out of black wood and a major destination for Guatemalan religious tourism – where I would meet Tim Hill for visits to Finca Pashapa and Finca El Puente. More to come from Honduras!
Kim Elena