Counter Culture has been engaged with Rwanda’s specialty coffee industry since its beginning in the early 2000s. A USAID development project called Partnership for Enhancing Agriculture in Rwanda through Linkages (otherwise known as PEARL) transformed Rwanda’s coffee sector through investment at every level of coffee production. Counter Culture staff and other coffee industry professionals made frequent trips to the region—sometimes three or four a year—to mentor and train a new generation of Rwandan coffee professionals. During this time, we met Gilbert Gatali, who managed a farmer-owned exporting company working closely with PEARL. Gilbert connected us with producers and helped us better understand and navigate this new market. Though our business paths eventually diverged, we always stayed in touch—hoping we could work together when the time was right.
Over a decade later, and after a stint away from the coffee business altogether, Gilbert returned with a vision to enhance the quality and community aspects of coffee production in Rwanda. He purchased a washing station in Rwanda’s western province, originally constructed through the PEARL project, and renamed it Intango. Coincidentally, Counter Culture had bought coffee from this washing station in the past, then called Musenyi. Under his leadership, Intango has become known for its commitment to quality over quantity and its efforts to foster a unique sense of community amongst the staff and coffee producers.
In 2018, Intango washing station commenced production with a focus on upgrading facilities and training staff to ensure the production of exceptional coffees. In the summer of that same year, they participated in one of our Climate Change Adaptation Workshops, held locally in Rwanda. Later, in 2020, Intango received a Seeds grant for agronomy training and plant nursery for producers. Gilbert and his team are currently focused on developing profit-sharing and social impact programs tailored to the needs of producers.
Though some people equate dark roasts with lower quality, we’ve found this style can create a complex cup when the coffee being roasted is of high quality. Like many coffee-producing regions in Rwanda, farms in the Karongi district sit at high elevation, resulting in denser coffees. This density lends well to darker roasting, as the beans can withstand higher temperatures while retaining their characteristic sweet and fruity notes. We hope that sharing a different take on these flavor profiles will encourage drinkers to seek out other coffees from a country near and dear to Counter Culture.
Potato Taste Defect
Intango, like many coffees from the Great Lakes region of East Africa, has a small likelihood of having a defect called Potato Taste Defect (PTD). You would notice this issue when grinding your coffee. Though a bit unpleasant and highly aromatic, PTD only affects individual beans and doesn't spread throughout the bag. It only impacts flavor and is completely safe to consume. If you'd like to learn more about this defect, as well as some tips for avoiding it in your cup, check out our Potato Taste Defect blog post.
